Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Lady in Nairobi

Last time I was in Nairobi was exactly four years ago. I came with two girlfriends and stayed with the parents of one of their classmates from Georgetown. It was a lovely trip, complete with a safari in the Masai Mara and a four day mini break in Zanzibar. I had no idea when I would return, but when I moved to London I figured it was only a matter of time.



That time has come. Tired of the snow and cold in London, my boyfriend and I chose Africa for our annual February escape from Seasonal Affect Disorder. We figured that seventeen days in Kenya, Mali, and Senegal would have us in high enough spirits to last the rest of the long London winter.

We arrived at Nairobi airport late last night, where we were picked up by our hotel's driver and taken to the Miti Mingi Guesthouse in the Westlands neighborhood. The hotel's owner, Carla, gave us a warm welcome and a tour before letting us fall into bed for the night.



We woke up this morning to a beautiful sunny day and a huge breakfast on the garden terrace. After the meal we found ourselves a driver who agreed to take us around Nairobi for the day.



We left Miti Mingi around noon and headed to the Giraffe Centre, a conservation trust in Nairobi where you can feed the giraffes. I had been there on my previous visit to Nairobi, and couldn't wait to take my boyfriend.



We pulled up during a convenient lull in tourist activity, and had the giraffes all to ourselves for a few minutes. We held up our hands and fed them pellets that were a mix of molasses and grains, for which they eagerly reached our their long purple tongues. Distracted by the pellets, they didn't care that we took the opportunity to pet their soft faces, which were almost as big as our entire bodies.



After feeding the giraffes, we walked around the center's learning area, then explored the rest of the grounds, including the turtle enclosure and the outdoor cafe and shop.



Leaving the giraffes behind, we headed to Mamba Village, a wildlife park with a crocodile farm. We spent the next hour watching the adult crocs sunbathing lazily in the afternoon heat and the babies running and swimming around their enclosure. When we had seen enough prehistoric reptile action, we headed to the large lake on the other side of Mamba Village.



Our first stop was the ostrich enclosure, where we got close to four rather ornery ostriches. Dodging their darting beaks, we took photos of them as they tried to eat everything from the metal food bin to the wooden railings of their pen.



From there we found some random rabbit hutches with bunnies of every color, and then walked on to the giraffe area. The lone giraffe saw us coming from quite some distance and seemed as interested in us as we were in it. Quite the prima donna, it posed for a number of photos and kept very close to us the whole time. I would like to think that I am a giraffe whisperer, but I think it was just hoping for food.



From Mamba Village we went to Karen Shopping Centre to get some lunch and pick up some of the same Kenyan tea that I had bought on my previous visit to Nairobi. I bought the biggest bag I could fit in my suitcase, happy to no longer have to ration the last of the box I bought four years ago.



After eating lunch at one of the small cafes in the shopping center, we walked along the street to the other half of the mall. Along the way we passed a market where Masai women were selling brightly colored cloth, slender wooden carvings, and other souvenirs. We made our way past them and into the other part of the shopping center, which was much more of a local market than the half we were in before. We walked around for a bit and then made our way back to our driver.



Jet lag and fatigue from staying up to watch the Super Bowl before our flight had fully caught up with us at that point. We headed back to Miti Mingi Guesthouse to take a nap and relax before dinner.



Tonight we headed to Talisman Restaurant in Karen for our evening meal, which was rich with international cuisine and local Tusker beer. In the morning we head to Bamako, Mali for the second of our seventeen snow-free days in Africa. We'll be back in Nairobi twice before our Africa adventure is over, though, so there are more stories to come about Kenya's capital city.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Lady Takes Photography Classes

As if my Africa trip preparations weren't keeping me busy enough, my boyfriend signed me up for photography classes in London this weekend. He gave them to me as a Christmas gift, and sixteen hours of photography lessons at Take Better Pictures in London Bridge definitely gave me a better eye for composition, a deeper understanding of how my camera works, and a greater appreciation for the powers of Photoshop.



We covered a lot of ground in two days, but the main takeaways were composition, theory, and editing.



The first of those topics covered areas like using diagonals to make a photo more aesthetically pleasing, the "rule of thirds", or dividing a photo into three vertical portions and positioning our subjects along the dividing lines, and the idea of taking a photograph as either a close-up shot or a contextual picture.



We also covered concepts like color, light, depth of field, and other important aspects of composition. There was plenty of time to put our new knowledge into practice at nearby Borough Market, South Bank, and a bizarre former 18th century cemetery with thousands of tiny trinkets tied to the gate.



The theory part of the course covered the three important technical elements of our cameras: the aperture, or the amount of light the camera lets in; the shutter speed, or how quickly the camera takes the picture; and the ISO, or the sensitivity of the image sensor to light.



We learned their mathematical relationships to one another, the ideal balance of the three elements in taking still shots versus action shots, and their effect on the exposure of the photos we took.



Today we had several chances to put composition and theory together. One photo shoot we did at the cemetery focused on using a wide aperture to practice getting a good depth of field.



Another concentrated on manually changing the exposure of the photos to adjust for shadows and light in the tunnels along the South Bank.



The most fun exercise of the day was on the high street, where we learned the technique of panning. Panning is the art of shooting a moving object. We learned how to take photos while swinging our cameras in a wide arc along with passing automobiles. In fifteen minutes we photographed countless cars, buses, bicycles, motorcycles, and even runners to try to get the perfect shot. It was harder than it looked, not least because I accidentally had my lens zoomed all the way in the whole time.



Following the photo shoots, we spent some time learning techniques on Adobe Photoshop, including how to adjust colors, light, and contrast. We were taught how to remove unwanted objects from photos, crop out unnecessary foreground, turn a color photo into a black-and-white one, and isolate elements of a photo to make them stand out from the rest of the shot.



The weekend was a great experience, and I highly recommend Take Better Pictures as a photography school in London. I can't wait to get to Africa tomorrow to start putting my new skills into practice. Stay tuned!

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Lady Gets Africa Visas

One of the nice things about living in London is that seemingly every country in the world has an embassy, high commission, or other visa-dispensing diplomatic mission in the city. Sometimes this makes it really easy to get visas. It also sometimes works to my advantage when the UK visa fees are lower than the US ones, as sometimes I'm only required to pay the UK fee despite my blue-and-gold passport.

Sometimes.



Other times, it's not so easy. For example, my upcoming trip to Africa has proved to be a less-than-thrilling experience in terms of procuring the proper documentation to enter Mali, Kenya, and The Gambia.

First it was Mali. One would think that Mali would have an embassy or at least a visa office in London, but no. It doesn't. The closest Mali embassy to London is in Brussels. The Brussels embassy offers a service whereby you can mail your passport to them and they will give you a visa. However, it requires a courier service to return the passport, which is astronomically expensive. So are expediters.

My frustrated boyfriend and I solved this problem as creatively as we could. I called the Mali embassy and put my French skills to use by asking them if we could bring in our passports in person. Yes. So we cashed in some of my boyfriend's Eurostar points and sent him on a day trip to Brussels to get our visas. We benefited from the pay-less-in-Europe rule, forking over only 30 euros each instead of the US price of 131 dollars. And my boyfriend got to spend a lovely day in Brussels visiting the Horta House Museum and eating his fill of Belgian waffles and chocolate. Not bad.

The second issue was with our Kenya visas. Kenya has an embassy in London, and the process seemed pretty straightforward. We printed the forms, attached our passport sized photos, and got cash to pay for the visas. Then we read the fine print. Only UK passport holders can obtain multiple-entry visas for Kenya. Seeing as how we will have two separate sojourns in Kenya during our trip, that wasn't very convenient.

We decided to solve that problem by ignoring it. When the woman at the embassy told us that we could only get single entry visas, we decided to beg. When that didn't work, we left the embassy frustrated that we would have to get a second single-entry visa in Kenya, and it would cost $50 each (in addition to the 20 pounds for the first one) instead of the multiple entry fee of 30 pounds. Sigh.

The third problem came with the visas for The Gambia. UK citizens don't need a visa to enter The Gambia. US citizens do, and the visa costs $100. Seriously? $100 for a country that small? It made me feel like visa fees should be proportional to the size of the country, and therefore The Gambia visas should cost around 3p. It would really be more fair that way. That said, I'm sure the Gambians that have to pay exorbitant fees to enter the US would argue that it should be based on per capita income of the country of origin, and I see their point. What a dilemma.

So with just four days to go until we leave for Africa, we're still waiting to pick up our Kenya visas and the jury is out on whether we will pay $100 to get visas for just one day of travel in The Gambia. But even with all of the visa hassle and being-a-foreigner-is-so-frustrating moments, I'm very excited to travel to Africa and I can't wait to explore Kenya, Mali, Senegal, and perhaps The Gambia.

Lady and the Lonely Planet Panel

A friend of mine that works for Lonely Planet recently posted a link on Google Chat for Lonely Planet's Travellers' Pulse Panel, a discussion forum where LP listens to what travelers have to say about their adventures throughout the world.

Given that I like the company, I enjoy sharing my travel ideas, and my blog is featured on their website, I signed up for the panel. A few days later my friend contacted me through the LP featured blog program to ask if I would reach out to my readers to see if they were interested in joining as well. As such, I give you an invitation to join the Lonely Planet Travellers' Pulse Panel. Here's the invite in LP's own words:

Calling all travellers!

Lonely Planet invites you to join our Travellers’ Pulse Panel!

Our panel is a discussion forum where we engage travellers and listen to what you have to say about travel – where to go, how to plan, and other creative travel ideas. We’ve always got interesting topics up for you to comment on, like our current survey on what you’re looking for when you take a trip to a theme park.

Joining the panel is free and if you’re accepted to be a panelist, we’ll send you a free Lonely Planet 2010 calendar as a gift to welcome you on board! Not only will you get to talk about travel, but we regularly run promotions exclusively for panelists where you can win prizes like Lonely Planet products and Amazon gift cards.

If you’d like to join this panel (numbers are limited) all you need to do is click the link below and take a short survey to register. We’ll look at your responses and depending on your age, travel experience and country of residence you might be one of the people we’re looking for! The type of people we need on the panel changes from time to time, so if you aren’t suitable for our panel this time we may contact you to participate in future.

https://www.travellerspulse.com/R.aspx?a=56&Source=BLOG

Thanks again!

Regards,
The Lonely Planet Travellers’ Pulse team